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California Dreaming Presents
Features - Specialty Sports - Surfing
Longboard Surfing Legend Gary Chapman
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| In the late 60's and early
70's Gary "Chappy" Chapman was one of the undisputed masters
of the surf world. He divided most of his time between California and
the big winter waves of Hawaii, although, like many true surfers, he
could be found anywhere there was great surf.
Chappy was consistently showcased in Surfing magazine - in graceful photos that displayed his confident and easy mastery of waves as well as in articles where he shared his thoughts and experience about surfing with others. California Dreaming is happy to be able to share these great photos, from Travis Ashbrook, of Chappy surfing some hot waves. As an aside, Chappy recently lost a leg. Think that kept him out of the water? No Way! He's back on a board and "going for it". Right On Chappy! A special thanks from California Dreaming to Chappy himself for sending us all the text for the photos! |
| Surfing Honolua
Bay, Maui 1969 "Cheap Fun!" 8' 2" Plastic Fantastic board shaped by Dick Brewer. Photo by Duke Boyd. |
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Surfing at Oceanside California jetty 1965 - 9' 9" Harbour Cheater shaped by Mike Marshall. Photo by Bobby Hand. |
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Surfing same day as in above photo at Oceanside California jetty 1965 - 9' 9" Harbour Cheater shaped by Mike Marshall. Photo by Bobby Hand. |
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Surfing 22nd St. Newport Beach California1964 - 15 years old. 9' 4" Doug Roth board shaped by Doug Roth. Photo by Bobby Hand. |
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Surfing "Trestles at its best!" California Sept. 1968. 7' 7" Plastic Fantastic shaped by Bill Fury. Photo by Brad Barrett. |
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Thanks Duke Boyd. What an inspiration you have been! Chappy |
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"Oh What Fun!" Trestles California back in the old days! |
Surfing Trestles California on a 7' 7" Plastic Fantastic board - shaped by Bruce Jones. "Run Bambi" Chappy |
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Above,
one of Pavlov's superfellows defends his country as instructed,
while Gary Chapman slides to a full stop and prepares to go the
other way. Below is a re-print of a very interesting article concerning
President Nixon, the Marines, and surfers. |
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HAS NIXON NIXED TRESTLES PARK? For some months, the possibility of a Trestles State Park has loomed portentously as a landmark of some sort on the horizon of the sport/art of surfing. According to Director William Penn Mott, Jr., the California Department of Parks and Recreation has appropriated the necessary funds, the bill for the opening of Trestles has passed out of State hands, and the approval of the Secretary of the Navy now stands as the sole barrier between the surfer and the Trestle. Almost. One other little bit of reality may be delaying the Secretary's approval: the presence of President Richard Milhouse Nixon's summer White House less than a mile away from the two Trestles breaks. Prior to President Nixon's arrival on the Cotton Estate, the Trestles opening was "a matter of days away." Now that the Chief Exec and the folks are camped above Cotton's Point, however, the matter of days bit may stretch into a matter of 1,460 days (if he doesn't make a second term). Or 2,920 days (if he does). However, abandoning such pointless hope, we can, as surfers, learn from our experiences under the military heel. The prolonged hassle between the surfer and the storm trooper might stand as a lasting allegory representing a hassle that goes deeper than merely the surfer versus the jarhead: an allegory for the surfing philosophy versus the military philosophy. CONVERGENCE IN THE SWAMP The self-proclaimed philosophy of surfing, if there is such a thing, is freedom for all people in an environment of peace and brotherhood. The philosophy-apparent of the Marine Corps; and, in fact, all military structures, is restriction for all people in an environment of conflict and self-assertion. No matter how adamantly a military force might attempt to shroud its reality, its existence is to a sole end: killing. What we have at Trestles is a situation where surfers, who almost invariably (on a group level) seek to avoid confrontation, are being forced into confrontation. The reason for this is that Marines, and other military personnel, are bred for confrontation. They are trained to respond to a situation where they come face-to-face with the "enemy." Thus, when the commanding officer says: "They are your enemies!" and points at eleven or twelve surfers floating about, the well-oiled Marine salivates in true Pavlovian fashion and does his trick. Like most conflicts, the Trestles hassle is an artificial one: two groups of people who have absolutely nothing to fight over are put in a situation where conflict is inevitable because the Marine machines have been programmed to salivate on order to a given stimulus, such as: "They are your enemies!" Whether they are or not. The issue at stake is an absurd one: surfers do not wish to give up the privilege of floating in the Pacific Ocean adjacent to Camp Pendleton! |
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Surfing Honolua Bay 1969. "What a set-up". 8' 6" Brewer. Photo by Dick Graham |
"Born under a bad sign!" |
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"Charlie Q. with the best seat in the house! (Sorry Charlie)" |
surfing Honolua Bay, Maui. 8' 6" Brewer. Photo by Dick Graham |
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"Dick Brewer Haleiwa Surf Contest" 1963. You had to surf a "Surfboards Hawaii" board to compete. This was the 1st North Shore contest and later became the "Sea Spree". |
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Calhoun girls, Bobby Cloutier, Jack Sutherland, Jimmy Lucas, Linda Benson, Jeff Hakman, Dick Brewer, DeeDee Henon, Leroy Achay, Fred Hemmings, Keone Downey |
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Chappy lost
a leg and got older but he keeps on hittin' the waves. These photos of Chappy
were taken a few years ago
down in Mexico at what was then a surf resort known as Playa Kandahar.
Click on any of these
photos to see an enlargement
Check out our Specialty Sports Home Page if you haven't already seen it!
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greatest Surfing Cartoon ever!